Eleanor Carter Talks Chumbe Island: Inside the World's First M-PPA

An Expedition to Chumbe Island Coral Park, Zanzibar, Tanzania

A twenty-minute boat ride from Zanzibar’s main island (Unguja) brings you to the remote and genuinely untouched Chumbe Island Coral Park (CHICOP). One of the most extraordinary marine conservation success stories in the world, this place is way more than just your typical dive site. And we don’t say that lightly. As the first privately managed marine protected area (M-PPA), Chumbe is a biodiversity hotspot in East Africa, home to blacktip reef sharks, coconut crabs, and over 500 marine species.

Our time at CHICOP challenged us to rethink what marine conservation is all about, which is more often associated with government-led initiatives. State-led programs face significant hurdles: limited funding, insufficient resources, and the sheer scale of ocean ecosystems. Despite global commitments like the 30×30 target—to protect 30 per cent of the planet’s land and sea by 2030—many marine protected areas (MPAs) remain “paper parks,” existing in name only, lacking effective management or enforcement in practice. Nearly 30 years ago, the team behind CHICOP decided to take a different approach, exploring alternative governance models and embracing private-sector involvement—an undervalued but promising force in ocean conservation.

(CHICOP is a world-first M-PPA. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

As pioneers of M-PPAs, the team established CHICOP with a vision that still remains innovative even today. Unlike the traditional model, where private sector contributions are often limited to philanthropy or corporate sponsorships, M-PPAs involve direct, hands-on stewardship of marine ecosystems. Ecotourism businesses, nonprofits, and research organizations can act as protectors, merging conservation goals with sustainable economic practices. Though this model has faced criticism—largely over concerns of inequity or exclusivity—CHIIOP demonstrates how, when done right, private-sector leadership can create well-funded, self-sustaining, efficiently managed areas that benefit biodiversity and local communities alike.

Today, CHICOP stands as an example of what’s possible when this model is built from the ground up. Operating as a self-sustaining, closed system, CHICOP channels tourism dollars directly into the restoration and conservation of its coral reef sanctuary and forest reserve. Protected by strict no-take and no-waste policies, these ecosystems thrive under a near-zero carbon footprint. Every visitor who comes to the island contributes directly to conservation and education efforts, ensuring this pristine ecological gem continues to flourish. CHICOP’s success not only redefines traditional marine governance but also offers a powerful blueprint for how the private sector can lead meaningful, scalable change in ocean protection.

(Coming to CHICOP. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Our journey to CHICOP was guided by the Marine Conservation Institute, whose Blue Parks program evaluates MPAs and M-PPAs worldwide. Their team urged us to include this stop on our expedition, and it didn’t take long to understand why. Since their inception, CHICOP has operated on a three-pillar model blending conservation, education, and ecotourism. From equipping local fishermen with sustainability practices to hosting global researchers and conscious travelers, CHICOP demonstrates how human activity can protect and preserve rather than harm.

During our visit, we met the team driving this profound success. Eleanor Carter, CHICOP’s Co-Director, shared how the island became a global model for sustainability—proving that doing well and doing good can go hand-in-hand. Eleanor explained to us what makes the island so unique as tourism rises in Zanzibar, and that connecting with nature can be the norm, rather than the exception. 

(Eleanor Carter, Co-Director of Chumbe Island Coral Park. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

The History of Chumbe Island

Andi: Let’s start with the history of Chumbe. It feels like there’s so much more here than meets the eye.

Eleanor: Absolutely. The story of Chumbe really begins in the early 1900s, when Zanzibar was a British protectorate. In 1904, the British constructed the lighthouse you see today, followed by the home for the lighthouse keeper and the mosque two years later. The first keeper brought elements of Indian design into the mosque’s construction, which you can still see. Generations of lighthouse keepers lived here, maintaining it as a critical navigation aid until the Zanzibar Revolution in 1964. After that, the lighthouse was abandoned, and the surrounding waters were largely left untouched—partly due to military training exercises in the area.

Andi: So, ironically, it was this period of neglect that helped protect the reef?

Eleanor: Exactly. While overfishing and destructive practices impacted other parts of Zanzibar, Chumbe’s reef stayed remarkably pristine. Fast forward to the late 1980s, when Sibylle Riedmiller, a German educator living in Zanzibar, identified the area as a biodiversity hotspot. She brought in marine biologists and partnered with the University of Dar es Salaam to confirm Chumbe’s significance. By 1992, she had founded Chumbe Island Coral Park Limited to establish the island as a marine protected area and forest reserve, financed through ecotourism. It was groundbreaking—Tanzania had no marine protected areas at the time, so this became the first.

(The CHICOP eco-lodge. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Andi: That must have been a huge challenge, creating something without precedent.

Eleanor: It really was. Sibylle had to negotiate with seven government ministries to get agreements in place, which finally happened in 1994. From there, the real work began—restoring the lighthouse keeper’s house, building the eco-bungalows, and designing everything to operate sustainably. For example, the roofs were engineered to harvest rainwater, and each bungalow functions as a self-contained unit, with composting toilets and systems to minimize environmental impact.

By 1997, we started bringing schoolchildren to the island for environmental education, and by 1998, the eco-lodge was officially open to visitors. To date, we’ve educated over 13,000 children, many of whom experience the ocean for the very first time here. It’s especially powerful for girls who otherwise wouldn’t get this access. We are helping them build confidence in the water, which is one of the most rewarding parts of what we do. The island now serves as a model for sustainable marine conservation, proving that ecotourism can directly fund conservation, education, and research. Every dollar spent by visitors goes back into protecting the reef, supporting researchers, and inspiring the next generation of conservationists.

(CHICOP empowers young girls to get in the water for the first time. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Bringing Children into Conservation 

Andi: It sounds like your education program is incredibly comprehensive. Can you tell me more about how it works?

Eleanor: Our programs cater to a wide range of age groups, from primary and secondary students to university-level participants. But we focus mainly on secondary school students because we want to be there for their first time in the water. Many students have never swam before, and we even see this among some teachers and fishermen. Imagine being out on the water every day without knowing how to swim! So that’s why we’ve developed a system to make it easy and safe for everyone, regardless of age. We use a large floating tube, and students lie on it while wearing their snorkeling gear. Beforehand, we give them a briefing on how to use the equipment, and then we guide them step by step. We have also run “safety at sea” swimming programs for fishers and community members.

Andi: Do most of them figure it out?

Eleanor: They do, every single time! At first, there’s a bit of hesitation—some of them are scared. But once they’re in the water and see the reef, they don’t want to get out. It’s wonderful to watch their excitement. Even the teachers who’ve never been in the water have the same reaction.

(Creating moments of wonder for local children interested in the ocean. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Andi: What about the schools? Do you work with both local and international students?

Eleanor: Yes, most of the schools we work with are local, from Unguja. For these schools, we fully sponsor the visits, covering all the costs. But we also welcome international schools—some from as far as the USA or Kenya. With international groups, we ask for a contribution to support the program. And when they are here, we introduce them to topics according to their level of education, like coral reef ecosystems or waste management. We even give them a choice to focus on specific topics they’re most interested in once they arrive. Coral reefs are by far the most popular!

But our education efforts aren't just for the children—we also engage community members, tourism operators, and even businesses. For example, we run workshops on sustainability practices, like removing single-use plastics from operations. We’ve also worked with teacher training schools, universities, and NGOs, particularly on climate change education.

(Education is a major pillar for CHICOP. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Chumbe’s Climate Challenges

Andi: We can’t escape climate change, even here on a remote island that looks as though it’s frozen in time, untouched and incredibly pristine. How is Chumbe adapting and what are the challenges? 

Eleanor: Actually, climate change has become a big part of what we teach here in Tanzania, starting as early as primary school. These days, it’s embedded in the national curriculum—every student learns about policies and environmental science through subjects like geography, and even advanced topics in secondary school. But the impacts we’re seeing here on Chumbe are a constant reminder of how urgent this type of education is. 

Storm surges have become a particular challenge. High tides, especially during storms, are much more intense now. To protect our infrastructure, we’ve been reinforcing foundation footings on some of our buildings. Rain patterns have also become unreliable. When we originally built the eco-bungalows, we could count on two predictable rainy seasons—two weeks in November and about six weeks in April and May. These rains would replenish our water systems perfectly. But now, with rainfall becoming sporadic, we’re facing longer dry spells.

(Every detail of the eco-lodge is considered with sustainability and conservation in mind. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

To adapt, we’re installing a solar-powered desalination plant in the future to help supplement our water supply. It’s part of a broader move to become less dependent on rainwater. At the same time, we’re using this as an opportunity to expand our education program. We’re planning a new module on climate resilience technologies—things like desalination, photovoltaics, and infrastructure adaptations for storm surges. It’s exciting to show kids and community members how these solutions can be implemented in real-time.

Andi: What about the reef? How has it held up?

Eleanor: The reef has certainly faced challenges, including coral bleaching during periods of high sea surface temperatures. We monitor the reef constantly, and we’ve partnered with groups like WCS and the University of Dar es Salaam to track long-term changes. Bleaching events have happened several times over the years—most recently in 2016. We lost about 30% of Acropora corals, but the recovery rate here has been remarkable—around 20% regrowth within a short period.

(Endless coral cover at the M-PPA. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

This is where Chumbe really stands out. Globally, many reefs experience much higher mortality rates during bleaching events because of stressors like overfishing, pollution, and human interference. On Chumbe, without those additional pressures, the reef has a chance to recover. It’s an awesome example of how marine protected areas can give ecosystems the breathing room they need to bounce back.

Andi: And I heard you’re working on a new reef restoration project?

Eleanor: Yes, it’s an exciting initiative we’re starting next year, and one we’re incredibly hopeful about. We’re collaborating with scientists, including a professor in Austria, to identify the most resilient coral species thriving on Chumbe’s reef. These are corals that have naturally adapted to stressors like rising sea temperatures and acidification—traits that make them essential for the future of coral ecosystems.

The process involves collecting larvae from these resilient corals during their spawning periods and using them to reseed areas of the reef that have been damaged. It’s an approach that focuses on working with nature rather than against it—building on the genetic strengths of corals already suited to withstand the environmental pressures of this region. What’s particularly exciting is that this work won’t just stop at Chumbe. The long-term goal is to scale this initiative, using these resilient larvae to restore other reefs across Zanzibar and even beyond.

(Conducting a coral health survey. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

This method, which has seen promising results in places like the Great Barrier Reef, emphasizes the importance of local adaptation. The coral species here in East Africa are distinct from those in Australia, so what works there wouldn’t necessarily work here. By focusing on Chumbe’s native coral varieties, we’re ensuring that the reseeded reefs will have the best possible chance of survival in their natural environment.

It’s still early days—we’re in the research and planning stages—but the potential is huge. If successful, this project could help secure the future of Zanzibar’s reefs and demonstrate a scalable model for reef restoration worldwide. It’s a perfect example of how science, conservation, and collaboration can come together to address some of the most urgent challenges facing our oceans.

(Both land and sea are protected at CHICOP. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

A Message to The Conscious Explorer

Andi: Chumbe feels so different from the typical island destination. Who do you think this place is really for?

Eleanor: Chumbe is for people who value nature, isolation, and the chance to make a real difference through their travels. It’s not about luxury in the traditional sense—it’s about experiencing the beauty of an untouched ecosystem and knowing that your stay directly contributes to conserving it. With only seven eco-bungalows, it’s intentionally small and personal. This is a place for those who want their tourism dollars to go to the right place—funding education, conservation, and community development.

Every single aspect of the island has been designed to operate sustainably. Our bungalows are completely self-sufficient—they collect rainwater, generate power through solar panels, and use advanced composting systems to eliminate waste. Even the soap and shampoo in the bungalows are biodegradable and sourced from a women’s cooperative in Zanzibar. All food is supplied by local fishers and farmers, and any non-biodegradable waste is taken off the island to be processed responsibly. But here’s the most important part: 100% of what guests pay goes directly back into supporting conservation, education, and research efforts on the island.

(Inside a bungalow at CHICOP. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Andi: So staying here is part of the mission?

Eleanor: Exactly. It’s about blending the experience of a peaceful, pristine island with real impact. The park rangers—many of whom are former fishers—are on the front lines, protecting species like coconut crabs, Ader’s duiker, and green turtles. At the same time, we’re hosting international researchers working on projects like reef resilience. Chumbe is where all these elements come together, and guests get to witness it all happening in real time. If you’re someone who cares about preserving the last wild spaces—both on land and at sea—Chumbe is for you.

Interview by: Andi Cross | Photography by: Adam Moore & Marla Tomorug | Support from: Chumbe Island Coral Park & Marine Conservation Institute

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SHE Changes Climate collaborates with the Edges of Earth Expedition, a woman-led team dedicated to highlighting impactful stories from the environmental frontlines. This partnership focuses on amplifying the voices of women who are pioneering positive change in some of the world’s most vulnerable coastal and marine environments, many of whose stories have gone untold.