The Last Wave of Ama Divers
An Expedition to Toba, Japan
Arriving in the remote Shima area nestled near Ago Bay and the historic Toba city, the Edges of Earth Expedition team met members of the Ama community: the all-women divers who have made the daunting depths of the ocean their second home. Andi Cross from the Expedition team recounts the experience
Mastering freediving is not for the faint of heart, demanding both physical prowess and mental resilience. Those who embark on this journey must cultivate a profound connection with themselves and the ocean. To be a freediver, you have to be calm, confident and extremely present. While the techniques of freediving can be taught, the integration of mental and physical discipline deters many from mastering it. Each dive is a balancing act, a testament to the intense rigor required to navigate the depths with grace and skill. In certain corners of the world, freediving transcends sport—it's a way of life, deeply woven into the fabric of communities where the ocean is both livelihood and life-force.
Diving with the Ama. Photo Credit: Adam Moore
The Ama Harvesters
Ama women are renowned for their ability to dive on a single breath to harvest a variety of seafood. In the late 1970s, Japan had nearly 10,000 Ama working the seas. However, their numbers have dwindled to approximately 2,000, with half residing around Ise Bay in Mie Prefecture. A combination of a changing world and shifting tides has seen this ancient practice ebb. Yet in this secluded part of Japan, the Ama tradition and spirit hangs on. Armed with traditional masks, fins and weights, the Ama demonstrate an extraordinary harmony with the sea, descending to depths of 3-20 meters to gather shellfish, seaweed and other marine specialties destined for local markets.
Historically, it was said that women were better suited for this type of harvesting work due to their enhanced breath-holding capacity and superior resistance to cold. Their physiology was said to further support the skill, affording them an edge in buoyancy and insulation. This women-only trade has been a tradition that has remained unbroken over the centuries. Yet today, it runs the risk of disappearing.
Our Chance Encounter
The journey from the famed city of Osaka to the tranquil confines of the Shima region was marked by anticipation to locate and learn from the Ama. Craving first-hand encounters that would open our eyes to what it really means to connect with the sea, we set out on a quest with our guide and translator, Gildas Hardel, by our side.
Guided by Gildas Hardel, who offered translation support and expert knowledge. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
We first decided to explore the local Shima seafood port and market, hoping to encounter Ama in their work vicinity. Fortunately (and quite quickly) we stumbled upon a home where three nonagenarian Ama were engaged in animated conversation on their outdoor couch. Our strange presence piqued Michiko Kaneko’s interest, leading her to invite us to sit on her outdoor couch alongside her two other friends.
Seated next to these formidable women, they started asking us questions about where we were from, why we were here and why our hair was so long. Laughing at our disheveled sight after days on expedition, and engaging in a bit of small talk, we started to gain their trust which opened up the conversation to go much deeper.
The Shima seafood port. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
Michiko explained that each of the women had been diving since their early twenties, and stopped only when they approached the 90-year mark. Contrary to our belief that the Ama were a supportive sisterhood, we discovered an environment where individual resilience and self-reliance were paramount among these women. Each had to hone her freediving skills independently, a solitary mastery essential to harvest ample seafood to ensure sustenance and livelihood. For years, these three women had one goal: to provide for their families. Now, with their working days behind them and nearing a century of life experiences, it’s a new chapter in their lives.
Michiko explained that the three women, once driven by individual responsibilities, now find camaraderie and laughter in each other’s daily company. The intensity and solitude of their working days have given way to moments filled with shared stories and memories—both good and bad. As they reminisced about their unique journeys, they were extremely forthcoming in giving us a glimpse into their extraordinary lives marked by decades of hard labor.
However, a recurring question hovers over their unique livelihood: “what’s next?” The Ama, many of whom are now in their 70s, face an uncertain future regarding the continuation of their traditions. As younger generations are drawn to different careers or metropolitan life, in and out of Japan, the Ama practice is fading away. The Ama revolutionalized the decline in fertility rates, with younger generations opting out of having children as a contributor as well. Yet, these three women didn’t possess a definitive answer to this looming question.
Michiko Kaneko and her friends are all Ama in their 90s. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
The Seafood Lunch
Next, our journey to understand the lives of the Ama led us to one of their traditional hut restaurants, where we experienced a meal featuring the ocean’s bounty, harvested by active Ama divers in their 60s and 70s. At "Osatsu Kamado-mae no Hama," we took on a massive menu filled with marine delicacies, including scallops, sazae turban shell, squid and Japanese giant clam—with the spiny lobster standing out as the centerpiece. Each dish, from rice garnished with fresh sea urchins to comforting miso soup with a gigantic, fat mochi (rice cake), offered a glimpse into the Ama’s connection with the sea. The food was fresh, simple and freshly caught that day by these women.
During our meal, a number of Ama approached us, curiously inquiring if we were enjoying their harvest. They observed us with keen eyes, ensuring we relished every bite and left nothing behind. It was evident that each dish served wasn’t just food, but a piece of their life’s work.
Ama cooking methodology. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
After lunch, we sat down with Chizuko Nakamura, an Ama in her 70’s who was diving up until just last year. She welcomed the discussion about the fate of the Ama and what the future holds. Although Chizuko has children of her own, none have shown interest in continuing the Ama tradition. She expressed a mix of emotions—a tinge of sadness intertwined with understanding, recognizing how hard it was (and is) to be an Ama. Especially in a modernizing world.
Chizuko gave us insight into the demanding journey of becoming an Ama diver, outlining the challenging days at sea and the often harsh conditions they must navigate. She explained that the sea isn’t always generous, and that there’s been a steady decline of marine life in these waters for years. She signaled at the changing climate that is hard not to ignore on the coastlines of Japan. This has made earning a living through harvesting even more strenuous than it already is. These challenges, combined with the physical demands of the job, are barriers that deter the younger generation from adopting this unique livelihood.
Chizuko confessed her uncertainty regarding a solution to the Ama’s dwindling numbers as well. She says it was a reflection of a broader concern as many Ama divers, including her friends, are reaching an age where they can no longer continue this arduous work. With a twinkle of humor underscored by seriousness, she inquired if we were considering joining their ranks given our obvious interest and admiration.
Speaking with Chizuko Nakamura, a retired Ama. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
The Unexpected Dive
Chizuko shared that amidst the predominantly older Ama population, a few younger women in their 40s were still involved. Out of the 514 divers in the Ise Shima National Park region, there was a 44-year old, who was deemed the youngest. Determined to meet this diver, we sought the help of the locals and Gildas, instrumental in bridging the language barrier and facilitating connections.
We headed back to Toba City during what we came to learn was OcTOBA Festival, a local adaptation of the western world’s Halloween. In the middle of these festivities, we were introduced to Kiku Ezaki, a radiant presence whose warmth and friendliness stood out among the crowd. It was as though a celebrity had graced the festival—everyone wanted a moment with her. Kiku’s energy was infectious; a magnetic personality that drew people in, including us.
Kiku Ezaki in the town of Toba. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
Welcoming us into her family-run ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn complete with a bathhouse), Kiku offered to take us diving. The next morning, we could hardly contain our excitement, as we were getting the chance to dive with Kiku’s Kaito Yumin Club. While getting briefed about the challenges of the waters we were to explore at the ryokan, a woman named Aiko Ohno arrived. And there she was, the youngest Ama diver in the area. Donned in a seamless blend of traditional and modern gear, she was the bridge between the past and the future. A celebrated photographer, Aiko had carved a niche capturing the nuanced life of the Ama.
Just 15 minutes from Toba center, Kiku and Aiko introduced us to the Mitsu Island chain, a location where waters ranging from 3-10 meters deep surrounded us, said to be home to an abundance of urchin—a favorite of the Ama. Watching Kiku and Aiko's flawless diving left us in awe and keen to follow their lead. For a little over an hour, we all took turns on the hunt, getting the chance to sample the fresh caught urchin, or uni, on the boat.
Diving with the Kaito Yumin Club. Photo Credit: Adam Moore
What’s Next
Post dive, Kiku bought us sweet treats back at the ryokan, and our conversation naturally veered back to the future of the Ama. Neither women had concrete answers either, but offered suggestions, with new methods of recruitment emerging as a predominant theme. They contemplated reaching out to nearby regions, like South Korea, to involve more women who already are known to have the skill embedded in their DNA.
But both mentioned there was one challenge that ruled them all, overshadowing their recruitment concerns: climate change. Aiko and Kiku acknowledged that the changing ecosystems and climate impacts could render diving in these waters impossible in years to come. Even though we were catching urchin today, that’s not the case for other seafood varieties here. And to them, the change has been drastic.
Eating fresh caught uni on the dive boat. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
In response, they are actively seeking ways to address these climate challenges. The Ama women are exploring eco-tourism initiatives aimed at raising awareness about the delicate balance of their marine environment. By sharing their traditional practices and highlighting the tangible impacts of climate change on their livelihoods, they hope to secure funding and support for conservation efforts. Their focus has shifted from merely preserving their way of life to becoming advocates for sustainable practices, ensuring that future generations can continue to thrive in these waters. Despite these real challenges, their spirits remain unbroken, and they are determined to persevere, adapting to new realities with resilience and hope.
So, what’s next for the Ama is a bit of a mystery. The future of the Ama way of life is intertwined with the broader climate crisis that affects us all. Each of us has a part to play in addressing the environmental challenges we face. One of the most impactful ways to bridge the gap between humanity and the ocean is through direct engagement—by learning to scuba dive or freedive. Immersing ourselves in the underwater world provides a deeper understanding of what many on the frontlines of conservation, like the Ama, are fighting to protect.
Traditional symbols on the Ama modern wetsuits. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
As divers, adventurers, and stewards of the planet, amplifying the voices of the Ama and adopting their ethos of coexistence with nature is more than just an opportunity—it’s a responsibility. The legacy and future of the Ama are not confined to the coastal villages of Japan; they resonate globally, urging us all to engage in conscious, respectful interaction with our irreplaceable ocean.
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Words by: Andi Cross | Photography by: Adam Moore & Marla Tomorug | Support from: Toba Chamber of Commerce and Kaito Yumin Club
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SHE Changes Climate collaborates with the Edges of Earth Expedition, a woman-led team dedicated to highlighting impactful stories from the environmental frontlines. This partnership focuses on amplifying the voices of women who are pioneering positive change in some of the world’s most vulnerable coastal and marine environments, many of whose stories have gone untold.