The Women Fighting for Cambodia’s Ocean

An Expedition to Koh Ach Seh, Cambodia

Marine Conservation Cambodia (MCC) has long been fighting to restore and protect Cambodia's marine environments that have been decimated over the years. Based on the small island of Koh Ach Seh, MCC's team of dedicated researchers, conservationists, and activists has worked tirelessly to combat illegal fishing that plagues these waters, restore vital marine habitats that have been lost, and safeguard endangered species like the seahorse that has been a victim of bycatch. 

Their efforts have been recognized in various media, highlighting their significant contributions, including the establishment of Kep's first Marine Fisheries Management Area (MFMA) in 2018, a landmark achievement in preserving the region's marine biodiversity. There's even a documentary, Current Sea, that delves into the challenges faced by MCC’s founder, Paul Ferber, as he began this critical work. However, what you won't find as readily are the stories of the remarkable women who have made MCC their home, working behind the scenes to ensure the survival of Cambodia’s coastal communities and marine life.

MCC’s home base in Koh Ach Seh, Cambodia. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Leading this charge is Cambodian local Rachana Thap, who has grown from an intern to the Executive Director of MCC. Under her leadership, the organization has not only continued its critical conservation work but has also deepened its focus on improving the livelihoods of local communities. Not to mention, Rachana has been sure to employ women from all walks of life to support the MCC vision and mission. During our time with MCC, we were taken by these women’s dedication and their innovative approaches to conservation. Their efforts represent a new wave of leadership in environmental stewardship, ensuring that the future of Cambodia’s marine ecosystems is as much about the people as it is about the planet.

The Goal to Restore Habitats

From Phnom Penh, we journeyed to Koh Ach Seh in the distant Kep archipelago, an appointed research island by the Cambodian government to MCC as of 2008. Here, the ocean has bore the brunt of bottom trawling, a destructive fishing practice that sweeps the seafloor with weighted nets, decimating marine life in its path. However, MCC's innovative solution, the Conservation and Anti-Trawling Structures (CANTS), colloquially known as “blocks,” has stood as the sole solution amidst this widespread and heartbreaking devastation.

Illegal fishing activity in Cambodia’s Kep Archipelago. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Following Becky Chambers, the Head of Marine Mammal Project, we watched as she and an appointed dive team of MCC long-timers maneuvered these huge blocks off the research vessel, dropped them into the ocean and dove down to create the simple yet visionary structure. This strategically arranged formation creates a formidable barrier against bottom trawling. Nets snagging on these structures can get torn off, effectively deterring trawlers from entering these protected areas. This innovative approach not only safeguards the seafloor but also discourages destructive fishing practices within the vicinity.

Becky Chambers with MCC. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Becky and the team worked with remarkable efficiency underwater, assembling block structures in less than 30 minutes despite the limited visibility. Using large gestures for underwater communication, they expertly maneuvered the blocks. Their synchronized movements, honed through repeated practice, were nothing short of impressive.  Becky was jumping off the blocks like a superhero, ditching her fins and moving freely to complete the task fast and well. 

For years, MCC has been using this highly effective approach, handcrafting the cement mixture for CANTS right on Koh Ach Seh. These structures are not only designed to reduce bottom trawling, but to also promote filter feeder growth and provide safe havens for marine life affected by trawling. With time, the team has seen incremental growth here, including increases in the dolphin populations throughout the Kep archipelago.

Becky deploying a CANTS in Cambodia. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Being involved with MCC since she was 18-years old, Becky is well-versed in block diving and the illegal fishing narrative here. Today, her focus has shifted to studying dolphin populations, particularly the Humpback and Irrawaddy species that have made a resurgence here. Alongside her local team leader named Sopheanie, their aim is to identify and document as many dolphins as possible, analyzing their numbers, distribution and susceptibility to disturbances. They're diligently building a photo ID database for scientific research and future support in combating illegal fishing activities in the future. 

Becky and Sopheanie hadn’t seen dolphin pods in weeks. The last database check only had 36 dolphins recorded, as it's extremely hard to see this species unless the conditions are utterly perfect. With these species being more shy then their spinner or common dolphin counterparts, they won’t be found doing leaps and jumps around any research vessel. 

We were fortunate enough to encounter these conditions, and remarkably spotted nearly 20 Irrawaddy dolphins in one outing—a clear indicator of the positive impact of MCC’s conservation efforts. Sopheanie, brimming with enthusiasm, captured these moments with her huge wildlife lens from the top deck. Fresh from completing her Environmental Science degree at Paññāsāstra University of Cambodia, working with MCC was her dream job, and this was evident in her excitement with each dolphin sighting.

Sopheanie on the research vessel searching for Irrawaddy dolphins. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Becky highlighted MCC's unique advantage in dolphin research. Unlike other studies conducted sporadically, MCC's year-round, boots-on-the-ground presence enables them to conduct frequent surveys, weather permitting. This consistent monitoring allows them to identify long-term trends and patterns in dolphin populations, demonstrating the critical role of persistence when it comes to marine research.

The Goal to Improve Livelihood

Rachana's dedication to MCC seven years ago all began with dolphins. The sight of these creatures ignited hope, reinforcing her commitment to the cause. While Becky and Sopheanie, along with their team of volunteers, concentrate on habitat restoration, Rachana's role involves tackling broader conservation strategies.

Rachana is navigating the intricate balance between ecological restoration and enhancing local livelihoods, a critical aspect for Cambodians reliant on the sea. The simplicity and affordability of CANTS allow community involvement in their construction. They can be built by communities and then the MCC dive team will help to deploy them in their fisheries areas. Her pivotal role has led to the adoption of these structures in Kep and Kampot, inspired by MCC's successful model.

Rachana Thap, Executive Director at MCC. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Initially, Rachana joined MCC with little ocean knowledge but a deep appreciation for it. Over the course of her initial internship, she discovered the profound connection between humanity and the sea, and this connection deepened her commitment to this cause. Her main focus became educating and inspiring the Cambodian community, a mission that drives her every day. 

It only takes a minute to process Rachana’s passion. She downplays her official title, preferring to describe herself simply as a human dedicated to the planet and country. For her, the journey isn't about material gains but about the impact and relentless effort to bring about positive change. A day off is a step back in her eyes, a notion she doesn't entertain. 

Rachana highlighted the tangible results since the establishment of the MFMA and deployment of the block program. There’s been a surge in biodiversity, with even the rare and special sightings of marine mammals such as dugongs, a sign of habitat regrowth. The resurgence of seagrass has catalyzed a domino effect of ecosystem recovery, leading to increased fish stocks and increased numbers of mussels and oysters, as observed by local fishermen. “Everything is connected and we need to constantly push for balance,” Rachana said. We couldn’t agree more.

On the research vessel with the women of MCC. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Diving with Purpose

Becky, Rachana, Sopheanie and the many women volunteering at MCC are a testament to unwavering dedication in the face of daunting environmental challenges. Witnessing the direct impacts of human actions on marine ecosystems, they have remained steadfast in their commitment. 

Becky summed it up perfectly, “I wouldn’t be here if there wasn’t a genuine passion for restoring the planet. My living conditions and lifestyle are very different from the normal, and there are plenty of challenges and adjustments to always overcome. But diving with purpose is what motivates me, and trying to be the best diver and ocean steward I can be is my contribution.”

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Words by: Andi Cross | Photography by: Adam Moore & Marla Tomorug | Support from: Marine Conservation Cambodia

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SHE Changes Climate collaborates with the Edges of Earth Expedition, a woman-led team dedicated to highlighting impactful stories from the environmental frontlines. This partnership focuses on amplifying the voices of women who are pioneering positive change in some of the world’s most vulnerable coastal and marine environments, many of whose stories have gone untold.