The Women Fighting to Save Alaska's Cook Inlet Belugas

Alaska’s Cook Inlet is home to a unique population of beluga whales that stay in the area year-round. Often called the “canaries of the sea” for their vocalizations, belugas are famous for their close land-based encounters near Anchorage in spring, late summer and fall. From April-May, and August through early November, they’re frequently spotted close to shore by the city, chasing fish in the inlet as the truly opportunistic hunters they’re known to be.

The belugas of the Cook Inlet are brilliantly adapted to its distinctive environment. As Sub-Arctic and Arctic whales, they rely on echolocation—a type of underwater sonar—to navigate the murky, cold, tidal waters, where silt and sediment are always in flux. This superpower lies in their “melon”—a flexible, bulbous part of their forehead that is responsible for their off-the-charts echolocation abilities. Belugas are one of the whales with this level of fine-tuned control of their echolocation, making them uniquely suited to the conditions of Cook Inlet.

(Looking out for belugas in Cook Inlet, Alaska. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Unlike more showy whales, such as humpbacks, belugas are much more subtle when they make an appearance. They blend into their environment as their white bodies glide through the brown waters, looking very much like white caps or wave crests, leaving a sense of intrigue for those lucky enough to spot them. But despite their captivating presence, belugas face numerous threats here in Alaska, and worldwide. To understand what these animals are up against, the Edges of Earth team set out to meet the women leading the conservation charge in one of the few urban locations where they’re still a familiar sight for those who look closely.

The Search for Beluga Whales

It was a pristine August morning when we got a call from Michelle Trifari, Alaska Beluga Monitoring Program (AKBMP) Manager with NOAA Fisheries’ Protected Resources Division. AKBMP is a NOAA-led citizen science effort, in collaboration with local organizations, to collect standardized shore-based observational data on Cook Inlet beluga whales. Michelle urged us to make a quick dash to the Seward Highway—as the Cook Inlet belugas were moving north, and we had a better chance to see them close to shore. Luckily, we were just 15 minutes away, staying in downtown Anchorage.

(Cook Inlet beluga signage. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

As we pulled onto the scenic roadway, we saw clusters of parked cars lining the shoulder. For me, this was a moment I’d been waiting for my entire life: the chance to pull over and watch wild belugas in their natural habitat. My fascination with the ocean began with a plush toy named “whale,” gifted to me when I was five. That toy was a beluga, and my curiosity about this unique cetacean had only grown over the years. Now, the possibility of seeing one in the wild felt surreal. Watching others gathered along the shore, pointing and smiling, I couldn’t wait to join them. In my excitement, I actually jumped out of the car while it was still moving (thankfully, no one was hurt in the process!)

(Views of Cook Inlet, 15 minutes from downtown Anchorage, Alaska. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Our first few stops along the inlet, though, led to disappointment—the belugas had seemingly already moved on. Finally, after most of the crowd had dispersed and the roadside grew quiet, we made one last stop at a peaceful overlook to take in the view. Climbing onto a rocky ledge above the inlet’s calm, silty waters, we sat for a moment, taking in the stillness. Then, suddenly, bubbles began to break the water’s surface around us. Flashes of white and silver appeared—the belugas had found us. For over an hour, we watched at least 25 belugas gliding and hunting close to shore. Calves, sub-adults, and mothers moved gracefully through the shallows, their thick, stocky bodies arcing through the water. I couldn’t believe how close they were. Sitting on that rock, alone with these gentle creatures so near the shore, it was hard not to get emotional. My first encounter with wild belugas was exactly as I’d imagined, and there was more of this ahead.  

Meeting the Women Championing Belugas

The next day, we joined Michelle and the AKBMP team for another chance to see the belugas. This time, Michelle had outlined a precise schedule: we’d meet from 9:05–11:05 a.m. at Turnagain Arm, then again from 3:26–5:26 p.m. at Ship Creek in downtown Anchorage. Timing was critical; the tidal cycle dictates when belugas may be in a location and gives the best shot to count the belugas, observe their behaviors, and gather insights on their habitat use within the inlet. With tidal shifts every six hours, Turnagain Arm sees one of the world’s highest tidal ranges—up to 30 feet. These rapid changes create a wave phenomenon known as the bore tide, which belugas tend to follow, moving close to shore at high tide in pursuit of fish runs and other prey.

(Taking notes of all the beluga sightings in a single session. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

This time, we were surrounded by the broader, predominantly women-led team from NOAA Fisheries and local collaborators, all working tirelessly to protect this endangered population. Alongside Michelle, we met Jill Seymour, a Marine Mammal Specialist; Brianna Gill, a Youth Ambassador engaged in community outreach; Elenor Trigg, a British intern working on her thesis; and Verena Gill, the Supervisory Biologist who leads the team’s efforts.

Each team member shared insights into beluga behavior, habitat, and the distinctive populations across Alaska. One fact stood out: Alaska is home to five distinct stocks of belugas, spanning from the Beaufort and Chukchi Seas to the Gulf of Alaska. The Cook Inlet population is just one of these, yet it’s the only one classified as endangered, having suffered a dramatic 80% decline between 1975 and 2018. Recent surveys estimate a population of 331 belugas, up from a low of 279—a small but hopeful sign after a decade of steady decline.

(Cook Inlet beluga whale and calf. Photo Credit: Anthony Madden)

The Threats Belugas are Up Against

Many of the challenges belugas face are not unique to the species itself, as climate change and human activity impact countless inhabitants of these waters. One major threat is anthropogenic noise from vessel traffic, which disrupts beluga communication—a vital tool for these highly vocal animals. “Noise might be masking their calls, making it harder for them to hear each other or use echolocation,” explained Jill, who leads recovery efforts. While ship strikes are rare, pollution and shifting prey availability due to environmental changes also pose risks.

Climate change is intensifying these challenges in Alaska, with receding glaciers, extreme weather patterns, and depleting fish stocks. The cumulative impact of these factors makes it difficult to pinpoint one cause behind the belugas’ struggles. “There’s a lot we’re still trying to understand,” Jill noted. “Our focus is on identifying and addressing the impact of these combined threats while using non-invasive methods to study the whales.”

(Human activities around Cook Inlet, such as surfing the bore tide wave. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Under the Endangered Species Act (ESA), Cook Inlet belugas are federally protected. NOAA’s outreach educates locals, visitors, and stakeholders on why safeguarding these whales matters. AKBMP enlists citizen scientists from diverse backgrounds—students, retirees, and even parolees—to track belugas and nearby human activities, strengthening a community of conservation advocates and expanding NOAA’s monitoring data.

As NOAA’s Cook Inlet Beluga Whale Recovery Coordinator, Jill oversees conservation efforts for Cook Inlet belugas, from community science to regulatory measures and collaborations with nonprofits, academia, industry, and the military. “It’s about bringing together a committed community to overcome these challenges,” she said. The goal? To see sustained population growth that could eventually remove Cook Inlet belugas from the endangered species list. “For that, we need consistent growth,” Jill emphasized. “NOAA’s recovery plan includes benchmarks to get us there, but first, we need to understand and address the threats holding them back. And we can’t do it alone.”

(Michelle Trifari near beluga signage during a monitoring session. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

NOAA partners with environmental nonprofits, the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, oil and gas companies, shipping, public utilities, and the military, along with researchers studying belugas in Canada’s St. Lawrence estuary and U.S. Aquaria, which help with metabolic and dietary studies. “Working with such a high-priority species, right outside our doorsteps, is a rare privilege,” Jill shared. “Cook Inlet belugas are one of NOAA’s top ten priority species, and seeing them just minutes from where we work grounds us in our mission. This is what keeps us committed.”

Upcoming Efforts for NOAA 

The next population estimate for Cook Inlet belugas will come from an aerial survey conducted next summer. NOAA scientists time these surveys for early June, when belugas gather in specific areas of the inlet to feed on fish runs. By observing the belugas in these concentrated locations, the team can achieve a more accurate count, which they enhance with modeling and correction factors to get a robust population estimate. Monitoring includes both land and aerial surveys, alongside boat-based research.

(Conducting a land-based survey. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

So, what role does the boat work play? It allows for photogrammetry studies using drones to capture detailed aerial images of individual whales. Trained NOAA beluga experts and drone operators work from the boats, collecting photos for identification and analyzing details like body condition, size, and coloration. These images provide data on growth and aging; which is why we know that belugas start as dark gray calves, gradually lightening as they age. By identifying these certain color patterns, for example, scientists can assess reproductive maturity, which helps estimate the population's breeding potential.

“To identify individual belugas, we partner with researchers such as Tamara McGuire and her team at the Cook Inlet Beluga Whale Photo ID Project, now in its 20th year,” Verena told us. “Like humpback fluke catalogs, belugas are cataloged by unique features on their bodies—marks, lighter patches, and scars that act like fingerprints.” The team takes lateral photos from boats and shore-based locations, allowing them to track individuals over time, sometimes spanning decades. One beluga, documented for over 26 years, highlights the success and longevity of this non-invasive tracking method.

(Verena Gill while out monitoring belugas. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Through these photos, researchers can gather insights into reproductive patterns by observing mothers and calves, assess scars that may indicate entanglements or vessel strikes, and even monitor for skin lesions or anatomical anomalies. Such data offers a deeper understanding of seasonal habitat use and potential impacts from human activities. Although not all scars can be definitively attributed to entanglements or boat strikes, experts use their best judgment to identify potential human-related causes.

Words from the Wise

After time with the women protecting Cook Inlet’s belugas, it was clear we shared a few common traits: a love for whales sparked during our childhood, the willingness to stand in Alaska’s brisk air for glimpses of white humps in muddy water, and a curiosity that keeps us coming. For women like Jill, Michelle, and Verena, that curiosity fuels their work despite the challenges of protecting this endangered population.

(A beluga searching for food in Cook Inlet. Photo Credit: Chandera Tolley)

Michelle and Jill reflected on their roles in beluga conservation, especially within a women-led team. Marine protection is more than a job, Michelle shared: “It’s a service to natural resources, a life’s work.” Their dedication was palpable, and they encouraged others with a passion for marine life to join, emphasizing that the more minds committed to the mission, the greater the impact—and this dedication is needed now more than ever.

(Views from above wild Alaska. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Verena, especially focused on building the next generation, knows that without team members like Brianna and Elenor, this work won’t endure. She hopes that with ongoing education, outreach, and community engagement, the tide can turn for Cook Inlet’s belugas. Each woman shared her advice: Michelle emphasized building connections early on, while Jill underscored the value of becoming an expert in a niche field such as this one. As the sun dipped over Anchorage, their words felt like a call to action—a reminder that these belugas need advocates just as they inspire.

(The team monitoring belugas around Cook Inlet, Alaska. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

That day, Cook Inlet’s belugas left a lasting impression on all of us, especially me. This team isn’t just working to save a species—they’re shaping a legacy—and one that many want to be a part of. Through dedication and tireless pursuit of their mission, these women are helping ensure Alaska’s Cook Inlet belugas remain a part of our future.

Words by: Andi Cross | Photography by: Adam Moore & Marla Tomorug | Support from: NOAA Fisheries - Protected Resources Division

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SHE Changes Climate collaborates with the Edges of Earth Expedition, a woman-led team dedicated to highlighting impactful stories from the environmental frontlines. This partnership focuses on amplifying the voices of women who are pioneering positive change in some of the world’s most vulnerable coastal and marine environments, many of whose stories have gone untold.